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Kauai
is known as the garden island because of its lushly vegetated
valleys and mountains. Being the oldest major island in the
Hawaiian chain, the coral reefs are the best developed, and
the beaches are some of the widest, longest and most
beautiful. The Hanalei Bay area on the north coast boasts the
most famous beaches in Kauai - it was here that the classic
movie "South Pacific" was filmed. Lumahai Beach, one of the
most scenic and photographed in Hawaii, has served as the
backdrop for many movies, advertisements, and paintings. It
should be viewed, not experienced, as the waves and currents
are extremely dangerous. Unlike most other beaches on Kauai,
Lumahai has no offshore protective reef. The bottom drops off
quickly into deep water. The winter surf is so heavy here that
the beach width varies by over a hundred yards seasonally. The
best view of this famous beach is from the scenic overlook.
Hanalei Bay Beach is
a huge U-shaped crescent of white coral sand that has
accumulated in the mouth of this valley between mountains that
provide dramatic relief and green vegetative scenery. Hanalei
is featured on travel posters and praised in old Hawaiian
songs. This bay is so large that it's long, continuous strand
of sand is divided by names into several beaches. Swimming is
excellent in the crystal clear waters year-round, but it is
especially good in the summer when the seas are calm. The
white coral sand has a reddish hue, and the beach ever so
gently drops off into deeper waters. Many people like to jump
into the water from the long Hanalei Pier, which also serves
as the entry point for scuba divers exploring the spectacular
reefs offshore. The rustic little town of Hanalei has escaped
any major planned development. Here you can find some beach
vacation bargains in terms of accommodations in an area known
for its natural beauty. For the upscale traveler, nearby
Princeville provides the luxury and all-inclusive amenities of
a destination resort.
Kee Beach in Haena
State Park is the literal end of the road and gateway to the
Na Pali Coast, Hawaii's premier wilderness experience. There
is ample parking under the shade trees adjacent to this little
lagoonal beach, protected by a natural coral reef breakwater.
Sheer mountain cliffs with intermittent waterfalls provide a
dramatic backdrop for Kee Beach. The quiet, blue-green water
serves as the most popular snorkeling site in Kauai, and there
are many species of colorful reef fish, including damselfish,
butterflyfish, surgeonfish and wrasses. Waves breaking over
the reef superelevate the trapped water at Kee Beach, which
escapes through a channel on the western end of the reef flat.
Unsuspecting swimmers and snorkelers paddling around the
school of tropical fish can suddenly find themselves caught in
a powerful rip current; it has caused a number of drownings.
The lack of high surf at the water's edge does not assure
safety. Lifeguards should always be consulted when entering
the water for the first time.
A fun walk along the
shoreline leads to Tunnels Beach, a big-time surfing beach for
experts only. It is not that attractive for swimmers because
of the flat-lying beachrock that lines the water's edge. A
favorite activity is beachcombing: waves washing around Haena
Point deposit a great deal of flotsam onshore, including
prized green glass balls from old Japanese fishing nets and
varied seashells. It is here that the tiny, pearly-white puka
shells were first collected and strung to make necklaces.
Actress Elizabeth Taylor is credited with starting the puka
shell fad.
Kalalau in Na Pali
Coast State Park is the most famous wilderness shoreline in
the Hawaiian Islands. This ancient path winds over mountains
and valleys for eleven miles before reaching Kalalau Beach.
The white sand beach is remote and often empty; there are no
lifeguards or rangers. The summer is the best time to attempt
this arduous hike as winter rains cause slippery and muddy
conditions. Kalalau Beach often experiences high surf, making
the water too dangerous for swimming. Rogue waves have swept
unsuspecting victims off of cliff tops where there is no beach
to break up the force of the powerful Pacific Ocean waves.
Notice the area along the cliffs that has been scoured free of
vegetation by past waves; you should avoid walking or standing
in these areas during big wave days. You never know when a
"sleeper" or rogue wave is coming.
Barking Sands Beach
is part of the Polihale State Park, which is one of the
longest and widest sand beaches in Hawaii. This 15 miles of
continuous sand averages over 300-feet wide in the summer and
is backed by massive sand dunes that tower up to 100-feet
high. Polihale represents the largest single accumulation of
sand in Hawaii. This wild beach is a great place to experience
nature, but the surf is too dangerous for swimming. Even
beachcombers have been swept off their feet by the strong
backwash from large breaking waves, only to find themselves
pulled offshore into perilously deep ocean water.
The trip to Barking
Sands Beach can itself be exhilarating, but hopefully not
dangerous; the paved road ends miles before the beach. I drove
a rental car through the dirt cane roads, which had
unavoidable pond-size mud holes. It took several washes to
remove the reddish-brown mud that coated the car from bumper
to bumper. Also, you must deal with the right of passage
through the Pacific Range Missile Facility, a top-secret
military installation. Why all the bother? The payoff is the
sheer experience of being in the tropical equivalent of a
seaside Sahara Desert, where the sand squeaks or "barks like a
dog" when rubbed with bare feet. Barking Sands Beach is one of
the world famous "singing sand" beaches; the dry sand grains
can be induced to vibrate at their resonance frequency and
hence emit an eerie sound.
Many swimmers worry
about sharks, but this fear is largely unfounded. Humans are
not a favorite prey of sharks; they much prefer the fatty
bodies of seals or the tasty flippers of a sea turtle. The
problem occurs when sharks cannot determine the type of animal
in the water or when they are induced into a feeding frenzy by
a bloody carcass. The best swimming water is the cleanest and
the clearest; poor in-water visibility can lead to shark
attacks. One of the most shark-infested beaches in Hawaii is
Pakala, where a nearby river discharges the reddish-brown
water from the upland agricultural fields into the ocean.
Surfers describe the breaking waves as "chocolate walls," and
shark sightings are common. Needless to say, I would not
recommend this beach for swimming, surfing, or any in-water
activity.
One of the greatest
beaches in Hawaii is Poipu Beach, which has, unfortunately,
been pummeled by hurricanes time and time again. Hurricane Iwa
made landfall here in 1982, causing considerable destruction
from crashing waves as well as damage from overflowing
streams. A decade later, Hurricane Iniki, the biggest
hurricane in historical times, came ashore with wind speeds of
130 miles per hour and a very high storm surge. Home videos
show entire roofs lifting off of houses, and amateur
photographers captured the storm waves crashing into the
lobbies of the beachfront hotels at Poipu Beach. There was
tremendous damage to hotels, particularly the Sheraton Kauai,
condominiums, and other shore properties. The beautiful golden
coral sand was nearly all washed away. There has been
substantial natural recovery over the years and some sand
importation to rebuild this treasured beach.
Poipu Beach Park is
one of the most popular swimming areas in Kauai and is used by
residents and tourists alike. The coral sands jut out into the
water near the western end of the park; they form an
interesting geological feature called a tombolo, which is
anchored by offshore rocks. People love to walk out on this
finger of sand, and the curved bays on either side provide
shallow and wave-protected water that is safe for small
children. All three of the tombolo beaches in Hawaii are
located in Kauai, and Poipu is the grandest of them all. The
coral sand here has a golden hue, making it an especially
interesting and beautiful color at sunset. |