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Maui is often rated
by travelers as the best resort island in the world, and the
white sand beaches from Kapalua to Wailea along Maui's sunny
west coast are among the very best in the United States.
Kapalua Bay Beach was the first National Winner in my annual
survey of America's Best Beaches.
Kapalua is a perfect
beach for swimming and snorkeling in the calm, clear waters
that are protected by two headlands, formed long ago by lava
flows into the sea. The name Kapalua means "arms embracing the
sea," and this beautiful crescent-shaped, white sand beach is
bounded by these rocky anchors. Sheltered from big waves and
strong currents, this beach is one of the safest swimming
beaches in Hawaii, and the water is inviting and great for
snorkeling and diving. The fine coral sand slopes gradually
into the deeper water, where at over-the-head depths the
bottom becomes more rocky, punctuated with coral heads which
attract the small, vividly-colored tropical fish. Resident
schools of yellow butterfly fish, blue needle-nose fish, and
green and pink wrasses await your visit. You can buy fish food
and rent snorkeling gear at the concession hut on the north
end of the beach.
Kapalua is one of
the top resort destinations in the world. This tastefully
planned development was built on a huge pineapple plantation,
and the buildings in this complex are set back from the water
so as not to crowd this spectacular little beach.
Accommodations range from the lavish Ritz-Carlton to the
elegant Kapalua villas. A full range of amenities is available
at Kapalua, or you may choose to just come for the day.
Kaanapali is the
best known beach in Maui, with a string of hotels along its
four-mile long strand of white coral sand. As in all Maui
resort developments, the six hotels at Kaanapali are set back
nicely from the water, providing ample space for a beach
promenade. Coconut palms fringe the beach that curves around
the shore; it is divided into two sections by a point of lava
rocks that creates variations in wave conditions along the
long beach. The beach is moderately steep, but nearshore sand
bars appear intermittently, providing the best play areas for
children. Periods of high surf, particularly during the
winter, can cause dangerous wave conditions. A flag system is
used to advise visitors of surf conditions; a red flag means
dangerous waves and currents. To the north is Keka Point, a
distinctively high bluff of black lava where the Sheraton Maui
was built. Here you can often find the best swimming in the
lee of the lava flows.
The village of
Lahaina is well worth a stop for those interested in boating
and history. In the mid-1800s this small port was the whaling
center of Hawaii, and the sailors on liberty gave this area a
rowdy reputation. Today the streets are lined with shops, but
the historic inns/saloons such as the Pioneer Inn are still
present. I enjoy sitting under the huge banyan tree that
occupies a village block. Kids are always amazed by the sheer
size of whales, and the Whale Center of the Pacific Museum
displays the massive skeleton of a sperm whale.
McGregor Point
overlook is an excellent place to spot whales, ranging from
50-ton mammoths to young calves. During the winter, humpback
whales school around the Hawaiian Islands, preferring the
rather shallow and more protected waters between the islands
of Maui and Lanai. Over 600 humpbacks have been counted in
these waters where mating and calving occur. This rugged
terrain does not permit any good beaches, but the whale
watching is superb.
Wailea is one of
Hawaii's newest luxury beach resort destinations; it is
literally an oasis of greenery in a semi-arid climate. A
series of five pocket beaches bounded by black lava points
provide for great swimming conditions in the calm water. Enjoy
all the white sandy beaches, which are connected by a coastal
walk and landscaped minipark that stretches for two miles.
Strolling along this palm-lined shore, you may see humpback
whales breaching or enjoy a beautiful sunset. Ulua Beach, the
middle beach at Wailea, has the clearest and best waters for
snorkeling, and it is the favorite of Hollywood movie stars.
While these beaches are open to the public, the rich and
famous frequent Wailea's elegant beachfront hotels.
There are two state
parks in the Makena area for those who gravitate to
undeveloped, totally natural beaches. Big Beach, or properly
called Oneloa Beach, is a mile of brown detrital sand which is
as much as a hundred yards wide during the calm summer months.
The beach is accessed by a dusty trail that leads through a
forest of shade trees, including the thorny kiawe trees. It's
best to wear sandals as these tough spines can pierce a rubber
tire. Just offshore is Molokini crater, providing excellent
snorkeling in the ocean-breached north side.
The Makena area is
little developed and has a laid-back Hawaiian style. When I
last visited Big Beach, a gathering of belly dancers in string
beaded skirts was unwinding in the shade of trees. A number of
people were making a beeline for the small mountain at the
north end of the beach. The loose debris requires careful
climbing over the black cinder cone to reach the best known
nudist beach in Hawaii. Little Beach (or Puu Olai Beach)
provides excellent swimming in the shallow nearshore waters
with a sandy bottom. Due to the secluded nature of this small
cove and difficulty of access, skinny-dippers usually
encounter no problems with the law, but public nudity is
officially banned throughout Hawaii.
Hana on the east
side of Maui is a world apart from Makena, contrasting in just
about every aspect; here ample rains create a profusion of
blooming flowers and lush green vegetation. Hana is often
called the "real Hawaii," where nature still rules supreme in
this tropical paradise, and people can get away from it all.
The road to Hana is an experience in and of itself; it should
only be driven on sunny days. The twisting, narrow mountain
road with thousand-foot drop-offs provides dramatic scenery,
but this route can be hazardous at night, especially when it
is foggy or rainy.
The Hana beaches
come in a bewildering array of colors from white to red to
black. Hamoa is the most famous beach. James Mitchener
described it as the most perfect beach in the world. This
pocket beach is rimmed by cliffs, covered with coconut palm
trees and beautiful flowering vegetation, such as flame-red
bromeliads. This stunning setting is what makes this crescent
beach so appealing. The sand is gray - a mixture of coral and
lava (not my personal favorite). While Hamoa is a public
beach, the exclusive Hotel Hana Maui maintains the beach
facilities, including beach luaus and Polynesian hula dancing.
Small black sand and
cobble beaches abound along the Hana coast, but most are best
for sunbathing rather than swimming because of dangerous
shorebreaks and rip currents. The most unusual and interesting
beach in Maui is the Red Sand Beach, known by the Hawaiians as
Kaihalulu Beach. This rare red-colored sand is a product of
the cinder cone that forms the beach. The sea has eroded away
the eastern side of the cinder cone, exposing the red volcanic
sand to oceanic wave action and providing a perfect pocket for
sand accumulation. You must earn your view of this stunning
beach; the beach trail proceeds along a steeply sloping,
landslide area of loose cinder ash. Children and elderly
people should not attempt this journey, and others should wear
good walking or hiking shoes; sandals will not provide the
support and sure footing required for this trail. The beach is
protected by a natural lava barrier just offshore so that
swimming in the quiet bay of turquoise water is a total
delight. At the north end, however, heavy surf can cause
swirling wave action and dangerous rip currents. Few people
make this trek; expect some nudity. |